Upgrading to a servo-driven landing leg set means the legs can be toggled to raise/lower from a spare channel on the receiver, I envision using this for aerial photography where footage is currently obstructed by the crab legs.
I chose the 600-class retractable gear set as I wanted only a single channel sacrificed on the receiver and didn’t want to run two 450-class sets – which is designed for smaller frames – in parallel.
To mount the retractable gear set to the frame I purchased 4 x Shock absorbing CNC aluminum tube clamp (10mm) which will fit the 10mm rails on the underbelly of the Predator 650 frame. A perk of this particular landing gear set is below the servo bar is ideal space to mount a camera gimbal, this be be done without modification.
I’ll update this post when the item arrives 🙂
[5 days later…]
Retractable landing legs arrived and they’re big! I’m thinking the 450-class set would have been fine, but I have not installed them yet so am still confident I made the right choice. Also the 4 additional tube clamps were unnecessary as the frame includes its own set.
The bulkhead that houses the servo’s has holes punched into it to suit a larger frame, they’re too far apart to be usable with the Predator 650 so I’ve drilled my own holes in line with the underbelly rails of the 650-frame.
Additionally since there’s so much space on either side of the bulkhead I’ll move my battery from the underbelly of the frame – was strapped behind the 4-in-1 ESC and FPV camera – up onto the bar and install a 2nd 4500mAh 4S battery to balance the weight out.
Before I shelled out for the dedicated Aircraft Navigation Lamp Set (install guide here) from HobbyKing I wanted to add some basic LED lighting to the motor arms of my X525 build, I still use these LED’s as one displays the Motor Arm status, the other the GPS Lock, that and the dedicated navigation lights don’t talk to Arducopter.
Update: The voltage of the LED strip has to be 5V. Too low, your strip will burn. Too high and it might not turn on (thanks Wei).
1 x LED strip in your preferred colour for GPS Lock (I went for blue, but you could also use yellow)
1 x LED strip in your preferred colour for Motor Arm (I went for red, ala The Danger Zone)
Connecting the LED’s to the APM board
If you went out and bought the 3 LED strip’s mentioned above you can connect the LED servo cable’s directly to the APM board’s analog input’s after a quick change of one of the leads to the JR connector.
We can connect these particular LED strip’s directly to the APM board as the LED’s draw less than the maximum permissible current of the AVR chip on the APM of 40mA per input, the LED strips we’re looking at draw 33mA per input.
Update: The current limit is 40mA per pin or 200mA total. Any higher and you risk damage to the APM (thanks Wei).
By moving the positive lead (red cable) over one spot to occupy the signal line APM can power the LED lights on/off when it chooses, left unchanged the LED strip will be connected to the +5V rail and be always on; which looks cool but is useless.
Using a small sharp knife lift up the tab on the positive lead (aka red cable) of the JR connector that holds the pin in place
Pull on the positive lead while the tab is lifted to remove it from the JR connector
Re-insert the positive lead into the space typically used for the signal line (the next available space) of the JR connector
Make sure the tab is down and the positive lead is secured by giving it a pull
If you’re using the current release of APM then you’re on AC 3.1.5 (Arducopter 3.1.5) and the following will apply, read further for the AC 3.2 changes which will apply when AC 3.2 is officially released.
AC 3.1.5 (today)
A4: AUX led
A6: GPS – will flash with no GPS lock, solid with GPS lock
A7 through A11: Motor LED’s (always on)
AC 3.2 (future)
A4 : Motor LED
A6 : GPS – will flash with no GPS lock, solid with GPS lock
Connect your LiPo battery and power up your APM board, lights on, enjoy night flying! When you’re ready consider upgrading to the Aircraft Navigation Lamp Set (install guide here) mentioned earlier as you can then add real-world lighting sequences to your build.
Turnigy Multistar 2814-800Kv 123 (HobbyKing didn’t stock the 2814-800Kv so I pulled the trigger on the smaller 2214-800Kv, not ideal as the motor mounts don’t all line up but close enough, in hindsight should have waited for the 2814-800Kv)
NTM 28 Carbon Fibre Motor Mount (as above, used the cross mount from this kit to mount the Turnigy motors with holes 16mm & 19mm to the Predator 650 motors mounts with holes 19mm & 25mm, no motor mount screws are provided so used screws scavenged from previous builds to mount the the cross mount to the motor mounts, if you get the 2814-800Kv motors mentioned above you mount directly onto the motor mounts)
For the past several months I have been receiving regular e-mail notifications from my DS213+ that a system update is ready to be applied, I’d proceed to open Control Panel > Update & Restore with an Administrator level User account and hit Update. Nothing would happen…
Checking for the latest DSM update…
DSM 5.0-4493 update 5 is available for download.
Failed to Download DSM. Please check your Internet connection.
Here’s the fix straight from Synology Support which is not mentioned on any well ranked forums or posts when searching for this error. I’ve pasted the original from Synology Support as well as an English-friendly version.
If you have updated your NAS to DSM 5.0 and above there is no security/malware concern to be worried about. If you are receiving e-mail notifications that a new system update is available but it does not appear on the Update & Restore screen please do the following:
Open Control Panel > Network as an Administrator level User account
Under the DNS options on this screen set the following primary and secondary DNS entriesPrimary: 22.214.171.124
Click Save Changes
Open Control > Update & Restore and click Update Now
Original response from Synology Support:
If you have managed to update system to DSM 5.0 there has security concern that needs to be worried. On the other hand regarding e-mail you received has a new software for update but no update was available on system, please apply Google DNS 126.96.36.199 or 188.8.131.52. for your DiskStation under Control Panel > Network > General (Preferred DNS Server) for changes to take effect. Then, check if the issue resolves then. – Technical Support, Synology
Update: This post seems relevant for DSM 5.1 users too…
Fun times with Apache… Recent releases of XAMPP for Windows hide additional Apache overrides outside of the reach of …/apache/conf/httpd.conf. If you’re like me and exhausted all prior Google results to get Permalinks working with XAMPP give this one a go.
Replace all instances of AllowOverride None and AllowOverride AuthConfig with AllowOverride All
Open XAMPP Control Panel and restart the Apache service or open the Windows Services dialog and restart the Apache2.4 Service
Breathe and give that Error 500 tab a refresh
Woop! In case this doesn’t work it’s likely you’ve missed one of the basics:
If you have a WordPress site that has previously been using WP e-Commerce (version 3.8.13 and and earlier) upon activating bbPress you will notice, well, no bbPress menus or references. Anywhere.
Update: You may get a “You have insufficient WordPress permissions” notice when activating bbPress, the following steps will fix this conflict with WP e-Commerce.
Earlier releases of WP e-Commerce adjusted the default role capabilities of WordPress User’s which for one reason or another – I am yet to identify the exact cause – results in bbPress not loading it’s welcome script (e.g. creating new default Pages, intro screen, WordPress Admin menu’s, etc.). Here’s the fix.
Install and activate User Role Editor from Plugins > Install within the WordPress Administration
Golden rule: The LCD and front glass panel on the iPhone 4S are fused together, without specialised/expensive equipment it simply cannot be done; I tried… Save your $3 USD purchasing the standalone front glass panel and put it towards the full LCD + front glass panel costing $20 USD.
I have had no prior experience working with iPhone hardware so these are my ‘watch out for!’ recommendations when replacing the LCD screen and front glass panel on the iPhone 4S and perhaps above.
The screws holding the LCD frame to the phone body and beyond small. Use a magnetized screwdriver or give coffee the break for a few hours before getting to work!
The loop on the digitizer ribbon cable that goes from the LCD through the housing body loves to get caught, make sure both the digitizer and display ribbon cables are the same length after threading them through the housing body, If they’re not, the digitizer loop probably got caught.
If you are replacing the LCD and front glass panel with a different colour it’s safe to assume you might replace the round home button too, if so make sure the metallic grid that sits behind the original home button comes across, otherwise you’ll end up with a dud home button, plus you have to pull the housing apart again just to get at that home button again… I learnt that one the hard way.